Apologies

So it is apparent that the blog has been neglected (ie. it's been a month). But I do plan on finishing the blog. It probably won't be as meaningful though, because I'll probably be back in Greensboro when I do so. November was quite the crazy month and well December is following suit, which is why I've been so far behind. Papers, performances, projects, places, people and other "p" words that might cause distractions are to blame.

It is my final week here in Prague, which is sooo weird. I feel that I've been here forever, but also not long enough. I want to go home so badly, but at the same time I wish I could stay here for another semester...or longer??? Quite the paradox. If only I could combine the two: Praguesboro...or Czorth Carepublic...or WAMU (that's Wake Forest combined with HAMU--the Academy of Performing Arts). That would be perfect. Oh, and everyone could speak Czenglish! Sorry, that's me rambling. Anyways, this experience has been life-changing. I've grown as a person. I lived in a place completely foreign to me. Not knowing anyone. Not knowing the language. And managing to make really great friends. Mluvím trochu česky (Speaking a little Czech). And just plain surviving. Studying abroad has been one of the most rewarding and enlightening experiences of my life (thus far?). I am changed as a person, perhaps not noticeably, but I know that there are parts of me that are so much stronger. So this message is coming a little soon, since I plan on finishing the blog (mainly, for a sense of closure), but I feel if I wait until I am back home the realization will not be quite so profound. SO, summary: I came to Prague hoping to have a break from the workload at Wake Forest, hoping to learn a few things on clarinet, and have some plain ol' fun. But, what I received is so much greater than I ever expected. And, I hope to come back some day, see how it's changed and see how I've changed too.


Anyways, what you can look forward to:
Fall Break: Krakow, Budapest, Vienna
Plzen
Itlay
Czech Student Orchestra
End of Semester Concert
Paris
Rebecca in Prague
Photography
Final Week of Prague
Being home

SOOO MUCH to write. But I really want to complete the blog. I hope that this post quenches your thirst until the next one!

The Boro meets the Burgh!!!

So today (Nov. 6th), I went and bought a coffee-brewer (kávovar). The poor sales person had to suffer through my poor Czech skills. Anyways, it was only 400CZK (20 US dollars). Not bad. I was hesitant to buy it though because I'll only have it for another month or so (which by the way is weird to say, and a bit sad--I'm already half-way through my stay here). However, the delicious cup of hot French roast has affirmed that it was a good decision. Sooo good. (Shout out to the rents for the coffee grounds). Anyways, I'm mentioning this because I want to work on my blog/uploading pictures to Flickr for the rest of the night hopefully thereby catching up to the present date. Thus the coffee is essential for the energy.


So on October 15th, I packed up my things and left for the airport. Going to the airport from where I live is a very involved process. I have to take the 12 tram to the Malostranská metro stop. Then, take the metro to last stop on the 'A' line. Then, take bus 119 to the airport. All in all about a 1 hour process. Anyhoos. I was about 45 minutes early so I sat in the airport reading waiting for the plane. I got on the plane, sitting next to some Scots on their way home from a holiday in Prague. The strangest part of the plane ride was when the steward asked if I wanted anything. I almost responded in Czech, which would have gone something like this: Chtěl bych kávu, prosím. Fortunately, I caught myself and responded in English. Anyhoos, the plane ride was fine. However, when I landed, I had to fill out a landing card and explain what I was doing in Edinburgh and when I was leaving and where I would be returning. I was scared that I had done something wrong and that's why he was asking so many questions, but apparently it's pretty standard. After my interrogation session, I rounded the corner and there was Speas!!!

So we took a bus back from the airport and then embarked for her dorm, along the way discussing our wonderful times abroad. We stopped at a baguette shop, where we grabbed some lunch. It was really delicious. I got coronation chicken, which is a standard Scottish food. It's chicken with curry and other assorted spices. SOOO GOOD. So we dropped off my stuff and made our way to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Along the way, we passed Arthur's Seat, which will make quite the appearance later in the post. So the palace is the place of residence for the Queen and other royalty whenever they are staying in Edinburgh. Perhaps, more interesting though is that it was where Mary, Queen of Scots, lived when she was in rule.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse

We got really nifty audio-tour-guide-necklaces!
Don't worry. We know we're cool.

The courtyard

Unfortunately, we weren't allowed to take pictures inside, but needless to say it was immaculate per usual. The most interesting part was the exhibit of Mary, Queen of Scots. It had many of her personal items (including a lock of hair...creepy...). There was also the room in which she was held at gunpoint while her brute of a husband and his cohorts stabbed her Italian secretary 56 times. There was even a plaque commemorating where they left his body. CREEPY. So after dragging Rebecca away from all of the really fascinating/disturbing history that she was nerding out over, we went to the abbey (more like ruins of the old abbey). It was absolutely gorgeous.

The Abbey of the Palace

So beautiful!

The abbey with Arthur's Seat

The start of the sunset

After the palace and the abbey, we went to Red Box, a build-your-own Chinese Restaurant. Hands down. The best Chinese I've ever had. EVER.

SOOOOOOOO GOOOOOOOOD.

That night we watched four episodes of Glee in her room. A very good decision.

The next day, we hiked Arthur's seat. And by hiked, I mean rock-climbed. So apparently there are very pleasant stairs leading to the top of this extinct volcano. We did not find them. Instead our path was pretty much foot holds in the earth. At one point, it was pretty much a vertical ascent up some rocks. We're pretty awesome.

The perspective doesn't quite lend itself to the sheerness of our climb.

However, the views were spectacular and it was such a nice day.

Edinburgh!!!

Panorama of the Burgh

Victory Leap!!!

So we figured for the descent, we would take the stairs down. Sounds easy enough. But since we didn't take them up, we weren't sure where they were. So we just chose a path figuring it would intersect or become the easy stairs. It didn't. We resorted to scaling down the mountain on our respective buttocks. Occasionally, there were some slips and scares, but we made it safely down.

Our vertical descent

See. We're ok.

 After Arthur's Seat, we made our way to the Royal Mile to see the Edinburgh Castle and St. Giles' Cathedral. Both quite beautiful.

Edinburgh Castle and two tourists who got in the way

St. Margaret's Chapel, the oldest building on the Castle grounds
(and in all of Edinburgh, I think)

Photo-credit: google

St. Giles' Cathedral

Note the color of the ceiling: Scottish Flag perhaps?

After we explored the Royal Mile, we got a Scottish delicacy. A fried hamburger with fries and ketchup on top.

Perhaps equally the most disgusting and delicious thing I've ever eaten
(Also, there was Dr. Pepper!!!)

After we ate our weight in cardiac arrest, we skyped two friends from Wake, Brad (previous roommate) and Nathan. It was great skyping and learning the goings-on at Wake.

Summary of my favorite things in Edinburgh
1. SPEAS!!!
2. The abbey of the palace
3. Coronation chicken
4. The best Chinese food I've ever had
5. Terrifying ascent
6. Spectacular views
7. Terrifying descent
8. The Royal Mile
9. Heart-attack on a bun

Photos on Flickr

I realized that some people may not have facebook accounts so the albums I posted are useless...therefore here is my flickr page with select photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/eichjj/

Photo Albums

So here are the links to all of my facebook albums

Prague (August 28th-present)
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=272537&id=588544605

Moravia (September 17th-18th)
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=277399&id=588544605

Kutna Hora (September 27th)
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=284180&id=588544605

Slovakia (October 1st-3rd)
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=285895&id=588544605

Scotland (October 15th-17th)
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=308952&id=588544605

What's in Slovakia? I don't know...want to go?

So I'm still behind but I'm trying. Honestly. I've had no free time with traveling, midterms and fall break. But now I hopefully will catch up!

October 1st-3rd, Sarah Senter, or Faye Faye, visited me in Prague. She landed Thursday afternoon, so I, being the good host that I am, met her at the airport. It's quite complex but I can make it there with my public trans pass. I had to take the tram to the metro, take the metro to the bus, then the bus to the airport. I'd never done it before (since the day we landed, NYU had taxis to take us to our dorms), so I was a little nervous if I was going to do it right. I didn't want to end up in the middle of a runway (ie. bad news bears). But, I made it with time to chill in the airport cafe and work on my paper.

So Sarah's plane landed and I waited for a text--and started to get worried when I didn't get one. But then Faye Faye turned the corner and happiness ensued! It was so great seeing someone from home (well, the other Wake kids here in Prague don't count). Oh and apparently her phone doesn't work in Prague, so there was no need to worry. So then we made our way back to Osadni (my dorm). We caught up on how we were doing and how we were enjoying our respective programs. So, then we got to my room and had a PB sandwich (no jelly--sad day!) and some tea, then got dresses for the philharmonic.

So my woodwind quintet instructor gave all 5 of us tickets for Thursday night--and I thought well, I can't go since Sarah will be there (can't ditch her for a concert--not very host-like). But for some reason Machat had an extra ticket, so Faye Faye could go! We got there super early cause well I couldn't remember how long it took last time to get there. So we waited for a while then found our seats and the other four joined us later. The concert was spectacular. The philharmonic played a Brahms overture, then a piece for orchestra solo contralto and men's choir, then a piece for orchestra and choir (can't remember the names--you have to pay for programs here in Prague and probably elsewhere in Europe which is annoying when trying to remember the program of the concert since I obviously didn't buy one). The one for orchestra and chorus was especially epic! After intermission, they played Schoenberg.........ehhhhhh. But this was before his atonal period so it was actually really great. I was expecting something along these lines: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A-feObF-lc&feature=related (you don't have to listen to all of this. Trust me). But instead it was his Pelleas und Melisande: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4i2Ea79xh3E. Actually quite wonderful in a weird sort of way.

So after the concert we made our way back to my dorm and talked about our lives over some tea! The next day we got up 9:00 (well, 9:15 since we waited for the second alarm before we were officially up). Sidenote: we stole the giant couch cushion from the common room for Sarah's bed and I'm sure we looked quite ridiculous carrying a cushion that's basically the same size as a chubby eight-years-old child. Anyways, we made our way to the cafe that's in the courtyard of our building for some much needed coffee/caffeine and a croissant (which probs didn't compare to a Parisian one but still delicious). We then made our way to Charles Bridge. I showed Sarah the statue that you get to make a wish upon my touching the cross in the saint's hand and we enjoyed the views of the Vltava and Prague Castle. We then made our way to Old Town Square, which has the beautiful Tyn Church and the Astronomical Clock. We waited ten minutes to watch the clock go off with all the animatronics and the trumpet player at the very top. We then made our way to Malé náměstí (Small square) where my academic buildings are and where the Hard Rock Cafe is (it's literally next door to the academic building). Sarah had to buy her dad a pin for his Hard Rock collection. We then went to Restaurace u knihovna (Restaurant by the library). It's my favorite because it's cheap and sooo good. So Sarah ordered gulaš and I ordered Smažený sýr (Fried cheese) more for her to try. Those are the two typical Czech dishes so they're quite essential to any visit to Prague. After lunch, we made our way to Petrin Hill, which is a beautiful park area (it's just really steep hence "hill") and there's an observation tower at the top with spectacular views of Prague. 

We climbed all the way to the top...sooo many stairs.

Praha!!!

However, a winding staircase and momentous heights are not the best after a heavy meal, so we both felt a little nauseous (Sarah, unfortunately, really nauseous). But we then proceeded to Prague Castle which was beautiful as always. Then we went back to my room to discuss the next day. We had a couple options: Plzen (where they make the famous Czech beer), Dresden (a really close German city with a lot of WWII history), a nearby Czech castle, or Slovakia (whattt???). We went to Bohemia Bagel to talk it over (and to have amazing bagels!). 


http://rickyyates.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/Bohemia-Bagel-June-2009.jpg 


SOOO GOOD. 


So we decided to go to Slovakia...we really weren't sure what we were going to do there but that's what we did!


So we got on the train at 12:30am, attempted to sleep on the way there and arrived at 6:00am. Nothing is really open in Bratislava at 6 in the morning except for the gloriousness that is McDonald's. So we chilled there with some coffee for a little while (and by a little while, I mean two hours). After that we wandered around Old Town Square, then sat in a cafe until the information center could open. So we went there and got a nice map and the lady told us what we should do. We decided to go to Devin Castle, which was about a 30min bus ride away. 


Devin Castle is really just the remnants of a 8th century castle. It was constructed at the confluence of the Danube and the Moravia rivers, prime placement for defenses. What remains of the castle is absolutely beautiful. Ruins atop a cliff spectacular. Surrounding it were the the two rivers and gorgeous mountains.

After Devin Castle we went back to Old Town Square and explored some more then got lunch.

St. Michael's Gate

Bratislava Castle (unfortunately, it was under construction)

Novy Most (New Bridge)

Kuřecí paprikáš (Chicken with pepper sauce)

Sooooooooo goooooood.

Slovakia was sooo beautiful, but we had to hop back on a train for Prauge. Then, Sarah had to leave the next day. But, we had fun though she didn't always feel that great--she was a trooper!

ummm...it's a church...made of bones...what?

So September 28th was Svätováclavskej deň (or St. Wenceslas Day). St. Wenceslas is the patron saint of the Czech Republic--also the fellar that the Christmas carol is about. Nothing really happens on that day except everyone gets the day off from work/school (like the Memorial Day/Labor Day of the Czech Republic). So NYU gave us the day off and day before too! So on the 27th, a eight of us went to the town of Kutna Hora. There's nothing really in the town EXCEPT for a church completely decorated with bones. WHATTT??? So we decided to hop on a bus and go check it out. It was only like an hour and a half away, so not too bad.


So the exterior of the church is nothing new just your everyday typical church.

Looks can be deceiving

So the church was added around 1400 to the center of a vast cemetery. All the bodies exhumed were placed in the ossuary (chamber for bones). The bodies amassed due to the Black Plague and the Hussite Wars in the 14th century. In 1870, the Schwartzenberg family employed a woodcarver, František Rint, to arrange the bones. Well, he arranged them alright. He constructed four massive bells, one in each corner of the church.

He also constructed a chandelier for the center of the church, which contains at least one of all the bones of the human body...disgusting yet strangely awesome.

He also recreated the crest of the Schwartzenberg family--obviously entirely out of bones. It is eerily accurate.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj37ydd1AX11tohjWjdvbIEBDJZuZg63T4QOKyZhqbDXz8x5wS7F26AdpTy-bhJhPnUO7dyrWW4vJhHgsBkZ0kLJOL0mQ3cy8L-OrF5ZCfGQzMk0BRKUsJc4UDCh66o2fTREMaUMzmEyhQ/s400/295b.jpg
Fell free to compare.
Note: behind the crest is one of the bells.

Pretty much the creepiest place...EVER.

In total, there were approximately 44,000 skeletons used...WHAT???

Anyways, there's not much else in the town, so we grabbed lunch with what appetites we had then headed back for Prague. Glad I went. Don't really won't to go back.

Česky KrumLOVIN' it

So two weekends ago (that would be the 24th and 25th of Septembet...I know...I'm way behind), I went to Česky Krumlov, which is a town about three hours south of Prague. It's a really beautiful place with a gorgeous castle and the Vltava river running right through it.

View of the town from the Castle

We had time to explore and eat lunch before we had to meet for the castle tour. Lecia, Fahima and I wondered around Česky Krumlov taking pictures of the castle and the town. Then we ate lunch at a quaint little cafe next to the Schiele art museum. We all got cheese sandwiches that were really good and Lecia and I both got Turkish Coffee because it was the cheapest coffee on the menu. Ummm...it's really strong. Like really really strong. And there's also the grounds at the bottom of the cup as well, which was...interesting. I'm not complaining though--I was tired so the caffeine was much appreciated.


So after lunch, we met everyone including our tour guide at the hotel. Then walked over to the castle.

The castle!

So we got to tour the castle and learned so much about the families that resided in the castle, mainly the Schwarzenbergs and the Eggenbergs. Unfortunately, we weren't allowed to take pictures (typical), but believe me it was really pretty inside. But! We were allowed to take pictures in the theatre! It was baroque theatre and we got to see the backstage and the contraptions that changed the scenes--a total of 13 possible scenes. While we were there it was set to the forest scene.

The Forest Scene

View from stage left

Where the Eggen/Schwarzenbergs sat

But! Did I mention that our tour guide was CUH-RAZY!!! And I think she was a little racist. There are always so many tourists from Japan in Prague and elsewhere in the Czech Republic. And there was a tour that was right behind ours and she kept closing doors on them and at one point made us hide in a room so that they could pass us. She explained that "the Japs" (as she so sincerely put it) came to the castle, snap tons of pictures and then scurry off elsewhere. She then proceeded to hold up peace signs, squint her eyes and say "ching ching ching." If only there was a picture of everyone's face after she did this. Simultaneous looks of discomfort, offense, fear and then we all proceed to uncomfortably laugh--she was crazy!!! And she invited herself to the planned dinner of the trip. The food was decent--but even better was the nearby flow of the Vltava and good conversations with friends. That night the RAs took us to this cool little pub known for playing "gypsy" music. It was such an awesome experience though I'm not sure the people were actual Romanis--still great!


The next day, we got to tour the Eggenberg beer factory. It was interesting to learn the process of making beer and see the ingredients that make it up: malt and hops and more.

This is what steams the hops and the malt--more happens but I can't remember

Not the greatest pitcure--I like to think of it as an action shop
We got to smell the hops, which for those who have not had
that misfortune smells like a combination of feet and sweat

After the tour, they gave each of us a little sample of their dark beer which is a "smoked beer"--it was actually quite good but not so great at 10:00 in the morning. After that we had about two hours to get lunch and wonder around the town a little more, which was great. We wondered around the back streets and went into all these little shops and then proceeded to take more pictures. Overall, wonderful little town!

We would like to see "more-of-ya" blog posts. Get it? Moravia? "More-of-ya?"

So first and foremost, I need to apologize to those of you who have been eagerly awaiting a blog post for some time now. I definitely got behind...need I quote the preamble from a previous post about the baby and the car and the distractingly delicious muffins. Well, I have been really busy and also have a cold. Unfortunately here in Prague, they do not sell the same types of medicines that we can buy in the store. I went to a lekarna (drugstore) and pantomimed my symptoms to a very patient woman and she handed me cough drops. I purchased them later realizing to get something like Tylenol Cold I would have to go to a doctor. So instead of doing that I am chugging orange juice like it's going out of style--hopefully Vitamin C will come to the rescue. I'm sure my roommates are annoyed by my continuous coughing though.
Anyways, Moravia. It was such an amazing trip. It was sponsored by NYU with priority for the music kids (that's me!). It was basically twenty-five people from my dorm on the trip. The bus ride was kind of long--and everyone mostly slept. I was a nerd and read some articles for Topics in 20th Century Music. We first arrived in Brno, which is the capital of Moravia and the second-largest city in the Czech Republic. Quick FYI. Moravia is a region of the Czech Republic similar to the way that England or Scotland are regions/countries of the UK. Prague is in Bohemia. Bohemia is North and West. Moravia is South and East. Moravia is more religious and much more traditional (ie. traditional folk music). Bohemia is atheist and more urban. Back to the trip. We met our tour guide for the trip who led us around Brno showing us the historical buildings and such.

We climbed to the top of the church for amazing views of Brno.

Sooooo many stairs.

What a vista!

After our tour of Brno, we had two hours to have lunch and explore Brno. Five of us went to one restaurant that we could sit outside at because it was a beautiful day. I got gulaš. It was so good. It also came with knedliky (dumplings). Then we went to the main square and each purchased some burčak, which is essentially "baby wine." It's wine that has not fermented as much by the yeast as normal wine. We came during wine season. Side note: Bohemia is famous for beer, Moravia is famous for wine. It tasted like juice. It was so delicious. Czech people call it something like "the storm," because it's so easy to drink a lot of it and not realize it, though the alcohol percentage is low, it's still in there. I tried a cup of the white and of the red. The red was so much tastier--it was pretty much grape juice! Then a Moravian began to play for about ten minutes before we left. They were really good and had a clarinet (awesome!) and a dulcimer. I've never seen one in person.


We then left Brno for Mikulov, a quaint town in the hilly regions of Moravia. NYU fed us dinner--it was delicious chicken pasta. After dinner, a Moravian string quartet came and gave us a concert in the restaurant. They were so good. They sang many traditional folk songs, which was great since my music history teacher had talked about folk music in the previous class. Their voices were all great and their harmonies were tight. And the first violin was especially impressive. Unfortunately, only towards the end of the concert did I think to pull out my camera to record a song. I only grabbed the last two songs which were both American.

Mikulov

"Yesterday"

The next day, we got to climb to the top of Holy Hill (deemed so because of the old monastery at the top). There are also stations of the cross along the way because Holy Hill was often the site of many Moravian pilgrimages. The views from the top of it were so beautiful and from there you could simultaneously see Slovakia and Austria while standing in the Czech Republic. Sooo cool. It was so beautiful overlooking the Czech countryside. Unfortunately, my camera died so I only got to snap two pictures.

I'm in the Czech Republic and in the distance is Austria and Slovakia

After we hiked down Holy Hill, we headed for Bzenec, a small town that was holding a festival for the grape/wine harvest. So naturally there was a lot of burčak. It was especially delicious. There was a fair with a lot of pastries and klobasa, which is like the mix between a sausage and hot dog but they're really tasty and always served with mustard. There was also a concert/play by the townspeople  in which they performed folk songs and acted out the presentation of the grapes and wine to the king. All in all, Moravia is so wonderful--the rolling hillsides and picturesque towns--I could get used to that.

Fried Chicken and a Symphony...classy

Sorry everyone! I have been neglecting my blog again. I have attempted to write this blog post maybe like ten times and every time I either get distracted or want to go to bed. So finally here it is.
On Wednesday, I had my lesson at 5:30. Usually, I have it on Tuesday but he had rehearsal for the Prague Symphony Orchestra. So we had the lesson and then he gave me tickets to the concert that night--actually first, he asked if I wanted to go. Did he really need to ask. If it's free and it's music I'm there. Anyways, so after my lesson he walked to the hall that the concert was going to be in and then left for his rehearsal. So I sort of knew where I was but not really so I had to find something to eat that wouldn't take that long. I wandered for a couple minutes and then saw off in the distance--could it be?!--yes--I think it is--KFC. Needless to say I'm a horrible person. Totally had Kentucky fried chicken...in Prague. However, it was surprisingly delicious. Perhaps better than the KFCs in the states.

Yes. It happened. No regrets.

So the concert was amazing. It was in Smetana Hall (he's a famous Czech composer--contemporary of Dvorak). They played Mahler's Songs on the Death of Children or (for my German-speaking friends) Kindertotenlieder. Kind of a Debbie Downer but still beautiful. It was five songs for mezzo-soprano and orchestra. The mezzo had a beautiful voice, especially her low-register. It was full and rich which is hard to find unless it's a really good alto. The first movement was the best--absolutely gorgeous. It gave me chills. The other movements were also excellent but lacked the "umph" (that's a technical term) that the first movement had. Then, after intermission they played Shostakovich's Symphony No. 15 in A. I love the first movement. It is amazing. The other movements meander around aimlessly. But the first movement is so great. And there's a trumpet solo in which he quotes Rossini's William Tell Overture. It's quite funny. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaRKsOUTZw8
Go to 1:55 seconds if you'd like to hear--or you could listen to the whole thing. It's pretty epic.

Prague Symphony Orchestra

Also I was a big ol' creeper and took a picture of my prof.

I see you dere.

CEILING.

Another post is to come of my trip to Moravia!